Discovering Havana, Cuba

Intro to Cuba Circa 2018

In the summer of 2018, my brother and I arrive in Havana Cuba for the first time. Finally, we’re able to get past phone calls and video chats to visit our family members in person. We step back in time to a city that is foreign yet familiar and reconnect to our Afro-Cuban roots. Having family show us around is an invaluable part of discovering the Cuban experience. There’s a lot to wander into in this nostalgic city so stay curious as I share a peak of what to expect as a first-time visitor in Havana!

Immigration

Arriving at immigration is a straightforward process. Some US citizens may feel nervous by arriving given the tense relations between the US and Cuba. But no worries! We wait in line for the immigration officers, state our names, have our pictures taken, and passports stamped, and receive a friendly “Welcome to Cuba,” from the officer.

My brother and I stare into the sea of antsy family members. I know to look for my two cousins who will drive us to Cerro. They spot us first and my eldest cousin strolls up to us with his then-girlfriend. After our initial hug, it all settles in. I’m finally here! I’m going to be in the same location as all the stories my mom recounted to me about living in Havana. Im about to meet family, neighbors, and friends, and I know they’re gonna spill all the tea of how my mom and uncle were like growing up.

El Cerro

We make it to Cerro, a borough in Havana. A narrow hallway leads to my grandmother’s home where she and my aunt await us. Her home, small and quaint, is filled with framed school photos we had sent over the years, adorning the living room walls. After bonding over lunch the fun starts when my aunt introduces us to the neighbors. Their excitement at meeting us is one of the most endearing parts of the trip. It’s amusing and heartwarming how they recognize me instantly, exclaiming “La hija de Barbara,” Barbara’s daughter, because of our obvious resemblance.

The neighborhood reminisces of what Havana was. Once colorful homes have faded in color, sidewalks are crumbled and archways are peeling. But the Cuban people are what keeps the city animated, especially at night…

To the Malecon

Roaming around Cerro, I notice a quiet atmosphere, with few people out and about—a stark contrast to the busy streets I remembered from visiting family in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. My cousin Ariel explains that most people prefer to venture out at sunset when the heat subsides. True to his word, later that night we head to the lively Malecon where many are out enjoying the cool air. On our way, locals quickly notice we’re tourists. A friendly man calls out to us cheerfully, “America!” We nod and smile, and he waves back enthusiastically. Our warm exchange is a perfect example of how welcoming many Cubans are toward American tourists. We feel instantly at ease with the genuine friendliness that permeates Havana.

This iconic 7-kilometer seawall stretches along Havana’s coast, offering stunning views of the ocean and city skyline. It’s a vibrant, free way to experience Havana’s unique atmosphere. Couples stroll and kiss, groups of friends laugh, and musicians sing, together creating a synergy that only Cubans can conjure.

Central Havana

The next day we’re up bright and early to explore Centro, Havana. This municipality of old architecture is enough of a reason to visit. It’s a stunning maze of plazas planted with old-century structures from the neoclassical-style National Capital to the baroque-style Grand Theatre of Havana. You’ll see the most well-kept buildings in this part of Havana. A stark difference between the crumbling homes and parks of the residential areas.

Near the capital, we take a horse carriage tour around the Centro. Our tour guide is upbeat and friendly as he points to all the city’s must-see sites and their history. Our stops include El Floridita, (Cuba’s most famous bar), La Bodeguita del Medio, (the birthplace of the mojito), and the birthhome of Cuba’s most renowned poet, Jose Marti.

Chinatown

We’re off the carriage and ready to use our feet again and explore Chinatown. There has been a Chinese presence in Cuba since the 19th century as Chinese indentured servants were imported to work alongside African slaves. My mom noted there was more of a visible Chinese presence in the 70s and 80s when she resided in Cuba.

Jose Marti Memorial

The Jose Marti Memorial is a massive star-shaped tower tribute to Cuba’s most honored poet. This is the Memorial to visit to see artifacts of the renowned Cuban hero. The base monument’s base features artifacts from his life and an elevator ride to its observation deck 109 meters high. This point allows access to the highest 360 views of the city. As I passed by his photos and relics, memories of my mother raving about Martí’s legacy came to life. Known as the “Apostle of Cuban Independence,” Martí’s influence through his writings and political activity is deeply embedded in Cuban history. I recalled the book of his poems that always sat on our dining room table, a cherished item my mother often referred to while sharing stories with my brother and me. One eerie detail she told us still haunts me: Martí predicted his own death.

Plaza Carlos Mall

We explore Plaza Carlos 111 mall. There’s a full crowd of shoppers purchasing what you would get in any mall; food, house supplies, and stylish clothing. However, our window shopping trip is short since there’s no AC in the mall and I’m ready to get some lunch and out of that musty air.

A Hidden Restaurant: Los Amigos

We roam near the National Hotel, walking through an old neighborhood lined with historic, abandoned homes. A tall, middle-aged man approaches us, asking if we’re hungry and gesturing with an eating motion. We look at each other and nod yes, and he motions for us to follow him. We walk down the block and soon find ourselves at a homely, air-conditioned restaurant, a surprising oasis in the empty streets.

Hotel Nacional

After our meal, we head to the National Hotel, a place exuding the swanky vintage aura synonymous with Havana’s tourist aesthetic. Towering by the Malecon, it stands as the cleanest-looking building in the city, exclusively reserved for tourists. We walk past shiny vintage Chevrolets and enter a lobby adorned with hanging chandeliers, sculptures, and workers in crisply ironed uniforms. The romantic courtyard awaits us, complete with wandering peacocks and attentive waiters ready to serve. We explore several picturesque spots, including El Jardín de Amor, (The Love Garden). It’s decorated with planted love motifs, and areas framed by rows of columns, hibiscus flowers, and a stunning waterview. The hotel offers a taste of class and luxury, yet a poignant reminder that such experiences aren’t accessible to everyone on the island.

House Party!

After all the fancy scenery, we end the night with some down-to-earth fun at a birthday party. My cousin’s friend hosts a simple house party thrown by his close friends. It doesn’t take long for everyone to loosen up and start dancing. Soon, we’re all gathered in a circle, dancing to a mix of Latin and American hits. One by one, we take turns in the center, showing off our moves, then partner up to dance salsa, sashaying across the room and switching partners as fast as possible. A few beers in, we even get the Chihuahua to dance in the circle and play with us too. It’s a night of carefree behavior.

Cuban Artists

The next day we walk to an ice cream shop and back home to my grandma’s house where my cousin shows us several of his paintings and drawings. This particular one stood out to me and I end up taking it home.

Where To Get Wifi

Wi-Fi is not a common luxury in Cuba, but there are public internet hotspots in parks and other gathering areas where you can pay about a dollar an hour for access. I visit a nearby park called El Parque de Palatino, featuring blue and white painted columns, a bridge, and a memorial sculpture of José Martí. Here, I’m able to call my mom through Messenger to tell her how my trip is going.

Tarara Beach

The next day is the day I’ve been waiting for in any country with dazzling blue oceans. It’s beach day! Access to beaches near Havana is pretty simple. We await a tour bus that begins its route in downtown Havana and stops along each beach. And when you’re ready to leave the beach you wait at the beach’s bus stop and present the ticket you used to get on. 

I tell my cousin Dania to pick something quiet and empty. A calm beach, “una playa tranquila,” I state with desire. To my luck, that beach is the first stop and just a 30-minute drive. 

Tarara Beach is truly a beach bums paradise. There are no extra distractions or crowded boardwalks. Just an ice cream shop that won’t overstimulate you as they just sell three staple flavors; strawberry, vanilla, and chocolate, and ham and cheese sandwiches.

The water is just the right temperature to walk right into. No tip-toeing in from the shocks of coldness. My brother enjoys a calm walk on the beach with his fresh-rolled Cuban cigar while we ladies savor the sea.

Dania, Gabriella, and I let the smooth waves crash into us. We’d jump over and swim through it. I taught them some English words and chatted with a Cuban man who thought my cousin and I were sisters. We swam some more until we tired out and bought some food.

After we munch down our sandwiches and ice cream we ALL fall asleep. Is it odd to say this was the best part of the day? I’ve never fallen asleep on the beach before but now I can attest that there is nothing like a beach nap.

Old Havana

Old Havana or “La Habana Vieja” is the municipality you have to visit if you’re craving that vintage romantic ambiance Havana is known for. You’ll be charmed by the rows of colorful baroque buildings that line the narrow cobblestone roadways. Tourist shops and restaurants reel in strolling tourists while residences on the top floors chat on their wrought-iron balconies. The signature hum of the city is vibrant as vigorous laughter and the rhythms of street musicians ring through the city. 

As my aunt, brother, and I near the Havana Port, we reach the Cathedral Plaza. The picturesque square is typically busy with street performers, musicians, and tarot-reading Santeras. However, the Cathedral grabs all the attention as it towers over the plaza beckoning tourists through its solid wood doors. Its interior, though, will leave you breathless; chandeliers, gold detailing, and oil paintings. It is truly a timeless beauty.

Before we leave the square I have to get my $5 tarot reading. There are several Santeras stationed along the steps of the square. You’ll easily recognize them in their traditional clothing, beautiful headwraps, and beaded necklaces (elekes) as they sit beside their working table. I would say this lovely lady who goes by “Juana La Cubana” is the plaza’s most recognized face as she has been featured in photoshoots and countless tourist pics.  She greets me, compliments my name, and asks me to shuffle her cards.

Here’s the famous Bodeguita del Medio, a restaurant bar known as the birthplace of the mojito. It stands out as a baby blue painted exterior with a big yellow “El Bodeguita Del Medio” sign. I squeeze myself into a loud drunk happy crowd entertained by a Cuban band. You may not stay long if you hate crowded spaces however be sure to sign your name on a wall and snap a pic in front of the restaurant sign before you leave!

A few blocks down we pick out a restaurant that stands out to us. A seductive red and white aesthetic and stone walls for a cozy touch. Our table is soon filled with our orders, large servings of fish, chicken,  pizza, rice and beans, and plantain. To top it all off our waitress treats us with a surprise performance of the classic song, Obsesion by Daniel Santos. Her smooth velvety voice fills the restaurant as she sways and sings with her eyes closed in a passionate trance granting us a luxurious taste to our dinner.

Last Night in Havana

On our last night in Havana, my family threw a goodbye party for us. Neighbors and family members fill up my grandmother’s small living room with gifts and souvenirs for us to take home. After dinner, we warm up with shots of rum and before you know it salsa dance partners are twirling and cha-cha-ing around in full force. It’s a setting of authentic Cuban celebration; lively dancing, cigar smoke, and loud Cuban voices permeate the air. Their silhouettes dance on the bright coral walls and firm steps reverberate on the tiled floors. I’m swooped up by an elder who insists I learn his very best moves. Over and over I twirl and attempt his fancy footwork and the house cheers when I finally get his routine down.

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and my brother and I are back on a plane the next day. However, I know that the welcoming spirit and rich culture of Cuba will pull me back again soon.